Tractors > 1949 8N troubleshooting ... 8N still running rough so let me go through what I've done. Coil off, cap off, points open. If the valve is stuck you may be able to get it to working by moving it back and forth with the hand inside the housing till it is loose enough to move with the touch control only. )I'd say you are having problems 1,6 or 7. You can remove them after the cover is on the work bench if it becomes necessary to remove the ram cylinder for repair. YOU CAN LET OUT ENOUGH OIL TO SEE THE MOVING PARTS OF THE PUMP TO BE SURE WHETHER OR NOT IT IS IN FACT WORKING OR NOT. My next choices are Wells or Echlin. I replaced Manifold with new replacement that came without a gasket, so I salvaged the original, no breaks but it is tired and probably not sealing enough, but it is quieter new gasket is on order. If you decide to take the lift off to work on it be sure not to remove any bolts or nuts except for the ones around the outside perimeter of the cover. If the hydraulics drift down, that usually means the relief valve is squeaking by. The spring is located on the exhaust valve itself and has to be intact in order to move the valve when the linkage is moved. There could also be a gasket blown out and leaking. You can check it by first removing it from the pump then washing it up and soaping it real good with some dishwashing detergent and water and apply air to the end that goes into the pump. Also there could be a gasket leaking somewhere such as under the ram cylinder where it mates to the lift cover housing. Don's Just 8Ns has them I think or could tell you where to find one if needed. GOOD ADJUSTMENT CAN BE DONE WITH A LEAK IN THE SYSTEM BUT FOR GOOD OPERATION AND IN ORDER TO TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE OF GOING INTO THE LIFT IT SHOULD BE DONE FIRST BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE IS DONE. If you find no appreciable leaks on top in your view then you may have a pressure relief valve leaking. If you don't, stop right there & post back w/ that info.Assuming that the bushings & advance weights are ok, the most common electrical failure (no spark, weak spark) points on the frontmount are:2. TAKE OFF THE RIGHT SIDE INSPECTION PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DIP STICK FOR THE DRIVE TRAIN OIL LEVEL AND START THE TRACTOR WITH AN IMPLEMENT ON AND LOOK FOR A BAD LEAK COMING FROM ABOVE OR THE ABSENCE OF MOVEMENT IN THE CENTER OF THE PUMP AREA. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem. When it blows inside it is just about impossible to determine what the cause is of a very weak lift until the pump is pulled from the tractor. This will give a resistance, or ohm, reading, which, according to the My Ford Tractor site, should be approximately 2.2 ohms for the six-volt system and 4 ohms for the 12-volt system. The housing must be replaced usually. HARD TO TELL WHEN COVERED BY A COUPLE OF INCHES OF OIL. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You don't suppose there is a relationship, do you?? I recommend the dollar bill 'cuz it is weird enuff to stick in a guys mind.

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Coil off, cap off, points open. If the valve is stuck you may be able to get it to working by moving it back and forth with the hand inside the housing till it is loose enough to move with the touch control only. )I'd say you are having problems 1,6 or 7. You can remove them after the cover is on the work bench if it becomes necessary to remove the ram cylinder for repair. YOU CAN LET OUT ENOUGH OIL TO SEE THE MOVING PARTS OF THE PUMP TO BE SURE WHETHER OR NOT IT IS IN FACT WORKING OR NOT. My next choices are Wells or Echlin. I replaced Manifold with new replacement that came without a gasket, so I salvaged the original, no breaks but it is tired and probably not sealing enough, but it is quieter new gasket is on order. If you decide to take the lift off to work on it be sure not to remove any bolts or nuts except for the ones around the outside perimeter of the cover. If the hydraulics drift down, that usually means the relief valve is squeaking by. The spring is located on the exhaust valve itself and has to be intact in order to move the valve when the linkage is moved. There could also be a gasket blown out and leaking. You can check it by first removing it from the pump then washing it up and soaping it real good with some dishwashing detergent and water and apply air to the end that goes into the pump. Also there could be a gasket leaking somewhere such as under the ram cylinder where it mates to the lift cover housing. Don's Just 8Ns has them I think or could tell you where to find one if needed. GOOD ADJUSTMENT CAN BE DONE WITH A LEAK IN THE SYSTEM BUT FOR GOOD OPERATION AND IN ORDER TO TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE OF GOING INTO THE LIFT IT SHOULD BE DONE FIRST BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE IS DONE. If you find no appreciable leaks on top in your view then you may have a pressure relief valve leaking. If you don't, stop right there & post back w/ that info.Assuming that the bushings & advance weights are ok, the most common electrical failure (no spark, weak spark) points on the frontmount are:2. TAKE OFF THE RIGHT SIDE INSPECTION PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DIP STICK FOR THE DRIVE TRAIN OIL LEVEL AND START THE TRACTOR WITH AN IMPLEMENT ON AND LOOK FOR A BAD LEAK COMING FROM ABOVE OR THE ABSENCE OF MOVEMENT IN THE CENTER OF THE PUMP AREA. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem. When it blows inside it is just about impossible to determine what the cause is of a very weak lift until the pump is pulled from the tractor. This will give a resistance, or ohm, reading, which, according to the My Ford Tractor site, should be approximately 2.2 ohms for the six-volt system and 4 ohms for the 12-volt system. The housing must be replaced usually. HARD TO TELL WHEN COVERED BY A COUPLE OF INCHES OF OIL. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You don't suppose there is a relationship, do you?? I recommend the dollar bill 'cuz it is weird enuff to stick in a guys mind.

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Coil off, cap off, points open. If the valve is stuck you may be able to get it to working by moving it back and forth with the hand inside the housing till it is loose enough to move with the touch control only. )I'd say you are having problems 1,6 or 7. You can remove them after the cover is on the work bench if it becomes necessary to remove the ram cylinder for repair. YOU CAN LET OUT ENOUGH OIL TO SEE THE MOVING PARTS OF THE PUMP TO BE SURE WHETHER OR NOT IT IS IN FACT WORKING OR NOT. My next choices are Wells or Echlin. I replaced Manifold with new replacement that came without a gasket, so I salvaged the original, no breaks but it is tired and probably not sealing enough, but it is quieter new gasket is on order. If you decide to take the lift off to work on it be sure not to remove any bolts or nuts except for the ones around the outside perimeter of the cover. If the hydraulics drift down, that usually means the relief valve is squeaking by. The spring is located on the exhaust valve itself and has to be intact in order to move the valve when the linkage is moved. There could also be a gasket blown out and leaking. You can check it by first removing it from the pump then washing it up and soaping it real good with some dishwashing detergent and water and apply air to the end that goes into the pump. Also there could be a gasket leaking somewhere such as under the ram cylinder where it mates to the lift cover housing. Don's Just 8Ns has them I think or could tell you where to find one if needed. GOOD ADJUSTMENT CAN BE DONE WITH A LEAK IN THE SYSTEM BUT FOR GOOD OPERATION AND IN ORDER TO TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE OF GOING INTO THE LIFT IT SHOULD BE DONE FIRST BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE IS DONE. If you find no appreciable leaks on top in your view then you may have a pressure relief valve leaking. If you don't, stop right there & post back w/ that info.Assuming that the bushings & advance weights are ok, the most common electrical failure (no spark, weak spark) points on the frontmount are:2. TAKE OFF THE RIGHT SIDE INSPECTION PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DIP STICK FOR THE DRIVE TRAIN OIL LEVEL AND START THE TRACTOR WITH AN IMPLEMENT ON AND LOOK FOR A BAD LEAK COMING FROM ABOVE OR THE ABSENCE OF MOVEMENT IN THE CENTER OF THE PUMP AREA. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem. When it blows inside it is just about impossible to determine what the cause is of a very weak lift until the pump is pulled from the tractor. This will give a resistance, or ohm, reading, which, according to the My Ford Tractor site, should be approximately 2.2 ohms for the six-volt system and 4 ohms for the 12-volt system. The housing must be replaced usually. HARD TO TELL WHEN COVERED BY A COUPLE OF INCHES OF OIL. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You don't suppose there is a relationship, do you?? I recommend the dollar bill 'cuz it is weird enuff to stick in a guys mind.

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Coil off, cap off, points open. If the valve is stuck you may be able to get it to working by moving it back and forth with the hand inside the housing till it is loose enough to move with the touch control only. )I'd say you are having problems 1,6 or 7. You can remove them after the cover is on the work bench if it becomes necessary to remove the ram cylinder for repair. YOU CAN LET OUT ENOUGH OIL TO SEE THE MOVING PARTS OF THE PUMP TO BE SURE WHETHER OR NOT IT IS IN FACT WORKING OR NOT. My next choices are Wells or Echlin. I replaced Manifold with new replacement that came without a gasket, so I salvaged the original, no breaks but it is tired and probably not sealing enough, but it is quieter new gasket is on order. If you decide to take the lift off to work on it be sure not to remove any bolts or nuts except for the ones around the outside perimeter of the cover. If the hydraulics drift down, that usually means the relief valve is squeaking by. The spring is located on the exhaust valve itself and has to be intact in order to move the valve when the linkage is moved. There could also be a gasket blown out and leaking. You can check it by first removing it from the pump then washing it up and soaping it real good with some dishwashing detergent and water and apply air to the end that goes into the pump. Also there could be a gasket leaking somewhere such as under the ram cylinder where it mates to the lift cover housing. Don's Just 8Ns has them I think or could tell you where to find one if needed. GOOD ADJUSTMENT CAN BE DONE WITH A LEAK IN THE SYSTEM BUT FOR GOOD OPERATION AND IN ORDER TO TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE OF GOING INTO THE LIFT IT SHOULD BE DONE FIRST BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE IS DONE. If you find no appreciable leaks on top in your view then you may have a pressure relief valve leaking. If you don't, stop right there & post back w/ that info.Assuming that the bushings & advance weights are ok, the most common electrical failure (no spark, weak spark) points on the frontmount are:2. TAKE OFF THE RIGHT SIDE INSPECTION PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DIP STICK FOR THE DRIVE TRAIN OIL LEVEL AND START THE TRACTOR WITH AN IMPLEMENT ON AND LOOK FOR A BAD LEAK COMING FROM ABOVE OR THE ABSENCE OF MOVEMENT IN THE CENTER OF THE PUMP AREA. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem. When it blows inside it is just about impossible to determine what the cause is of a very weak lift until the pump is pulled from the tractor. This will give a resistance, or ohm, reading, which, according to the My Ford Tractor site, should be approximately 2.2 ohms for the six-volt system and 4 ohms for the 12-volt system. The housing must be replaced usually. HARD TO TELL WHEN COVERED BY A COUPLE OF INCHES OF OIL. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You don't suppose there is a relationship, do you?? I recommend the dollar bill 'cuz it is weird enuff to stick in a guys mind.

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8n ford tractor troubleshooting

8n ford tractor troubleshooting

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The battery must be connected to perform this test. This is a crack if it shows grease escaping anywhere else in the housing and can't be fixed to my knowledge because of the placement of most cracks I have seen in the N pump.

I changed oil and filter for good measure to find that the previous owner had the wrong filter in the can with no seal so he used silicone goop. ......Dell If it is leaking you should replace it with a new one. ? See my web site at http://hometown.aol.com/wzsherman/myhomepage/sale.html If you should remove a bolt that has fine threads it will be from the inside pattern and you should put it back in the same hole it came from. Coil on, cap off, points open. Thats right I killed her. I tapped the outlet pressure hole to accept a 1/4" pipe thread so a grease fitting can be screwed into the outlet hole in the pump flange. W/ all that work in the distributor, you've probably got a short somewhere. You should have no continuity!At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit (it’s easier to do this from the left side). This is when the retaining spring that is an integral part of the exhaust control valve breaks or becomes too weak to actuate the exhaust valve when it is moved by the control linkage. If the lift needs to be adjusted you will need instructions and a jig to allow you to do the adjustments. BEFORE DOING ANYTHING TO THE LIFT IT SHOULD FIRST BE INSPECTED FOR ANY INTERNAL LEAKAGE. Dell for the Canadian challenged , it cost $5.00 , not fair $4.00 more. Priest......ya mucked around with the points and now it won't start. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. If it can't be pumped up enough for the relief valve to open then look for grease escaping somewhere behind the relief valve and usually under the pressure chamber behind the relief valve. The insulator at the end of the points where the copper strip attaches.6. Replace the Ford 8N coil if it does not pass this test. The other thing is to look for a leak in the system @ the ram cylinder rings etc and the pressure relief valve. Order Ford 8N Parts Online: Discussion Forums > Tractors > 1949 8N troubleshooting ... 8N still running rough so let me go through what I've done. Coil off, cap off, points open. If the valve is stuck you may be able to get it to working by moving it back and forth with the hand inside the housing till it is loose enough to move with the touch control only. )I'd say you are having problems 1,6 or 7. You can remove them after the cover is on the work bench if it becomes necessary to remove the ram cylinder for repair. YOU CAN LET OUT ENOUGH OIL TO SEE THE MOVING PARTS OF THE PUMP TO BE SURE WHETHER OR NOT IT IS IN FACT WORKING OR NOT. My next choices are Wells or Echlin. I replaced Manifold with new replacement that came without a gasket, so I salvaged the original, no breaks but it is tired and probably not sealing enough, but it is quieter new gasket is on order. If you decide to take the lift off to work on it be sure not to remove any bolts or nuts except for the ones around the outside perimeter of the cover. If the hydraulics drift down, that usually means the relief valve is squeaking by. The spring is located on the exhaust valve itself and has to be intact in order to move the valve when the linkage is moved. There could also be a gasket blown out and leaking. You can check it by first removing it from the pump then washing it up and soaping it real good with some dishwashing detergent and water and apply air to the end that goes into the pump. Also there could be a gasket leaking somewhere such as under the ram cylinder where it mates to the lift cover housing. Don's Just 8Ns has them I think or could tell you where to find one if needed. GOOD ADJUSTMENT CAN BE DONE WITH A LEAK IN THE SYSTEM BUT FOR GOOD OPERATION AND IN ORDER TO TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE OF GOING INTO THE LIFT IT SHOULD BE DONE FIRST BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE IS DONE. If you find no appreciable leaks on top in your view then you may have a pressure relief valve leaking. If you don't, stop right there & post back w/ that info.Assuming that the bushings & advance weights are ok, the most common electrical failure (no spark, weak spark) points on the frontmount are:2. TAKE OFF THE RIGHT SIDE INSPECTION PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DIP STICK FOR THE DRIVE TRAIN OIL LEVEL AND START THE TRACTOR WITH AN IMPLEMENT ON AND LOOK FOR A BAD LEAK COMING FROM ABOVE OR THE ABSENCE OF MOVEMENT IN THE CENTER OF THE PUMP AREA. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem. When it blows inside it is just about impossible to determine what the cause is of a very weak lift until the pump is pulled from the tractor. This will give a resistance, or ohm, reading, which, according to the My Ford Tractor site, should be approximately 2.2 ohms for the six-volt system and 4 ohms for the 12-volt system. The housing must be replaced usually. HARD TO TELL WHEN COVERED BY A COUPLE OF INCHES OF OIL. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You don't suppose there is a relationship, do you?? I recommend the dollar bill 'cuz it is weird enuff to stick in a guys mind.



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