clear coat for fiberglass door

If any stain remains after the door is dry, use … I found out the hard way what you mean about the doors not touching up.

Esp. Yes, I have done three coats on fiberglass doors and it is better than two coats, but if the door is protected from sunshine by an overhang, then that extra coat is less important.Well, I took all the tape off today so I guess I won't do 3rd coat on the sidelights, but I may do another coat on the door (did one coat under middle hinge yesterday, bottom hinge today, so still have top hinge to unscrew and seal under). pad? Paint is also the solution for homeowners who don’t like the look of fiberglass doors made by companies that warn against using any type of stripper, since it is impossible to re-stain these doors.As to how to find someone to do the work, try calling house painters. Clearcoated over it, dabbed more on over the clearcoat (that went on easier). Prior to my ownership, it was eventually repainted with a single coat of dark brown oil paint with no primer. Obviously, it has to remove paint. I would only sand in between coats if it is rough and it really shouldn't be because it is not wood so the grain should not raise. Buy a bottle of glass sealer before you use your shower, apply it, let it dry, and then wipe off like waxing a car. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email.

Then the painter gets to make everything look pretty.

Generally speaking, it is best to stick with the same systems, but Sikkens does not make a stain that works well on fiberglass doors. Door Stain and Clear Coats.

Is a week too long b/t coats (1st and 2nd or 2nd and 3rd)? So maybe I'll get 3 years.

Recoat as necessary to maintain gloss (satin), just wipe door down with mineral spirits first. Hope this has helped.What's a garage? Is that minimum, and 1 more is better (and eventually you'll get a lot more - I don't know at what point you have to strip instead of adding).Well wood is wood and fiberglass is fiberglass.

What grit do you recommend? It's still going to continue drying even though it is colder. It will just dry at a slower rate. Sand it? The reason we apply more coats is to get better film build because it looks better and seals better but that can be achieved on a fiberglass door in two coats.Yeah, I figured wood needed more coats b/c it's porous. Fiberglass doors have a realistic wood look, but staining them improperly will ruin it. Should I put on 3 coats if weather permits? Or only when adding a coat every few years, and not in between the initial coats (as long as I don't go more than a few days between coats)?

Wait until your paint has dried completely before touching the surface of your door or adding any decorative accents. )?I called this morning, Tech rep told me just wipe the door down with a damp cloth to get the dust off, no need to wash with TSP or use any solvent on top of the stain.

It will help protect your hand crafted door from the harsh Maritimes weather and allow ease of cleaning. It gets off any last fingerprints and grease.

Time costs money. The worst part about these Therma-Tru doors is that if you actually remove stain or nick it to where you need to touch it up, it's nearly impossible to get it to blend in, even if you are using the exact same stain you used when you originally stained the door.
I "painted" my f/g Thermatru door with Zar oilbased stain.

VERY DRY.After 3-5 minutes (I wasn’t really timing it scientifically), the paint looked bubbly enough to attempt scraping. I don't have to sand it before the first coat, right? I don't have a storm door. Generally speaking, it is best to stick with the same systems, but Sikkens does not make a stain that works well on fiberglass doors.
That’s why there is a next step: applying paint stripper.Tomorrow’s video will cover the use of a razor blade scraper.Most paint strippers say they should not be used on fiberglass. I'd take a detached one because mice will use the garage as an easy entrance. it is the painters job in my mind to handle these minor repairs. My fiberglass entry door is peeling and flaking the original clear coating off of it. A razor blade scraper can easily cut into a corner, damaging the fiberglass. In a spray bottle, pour two cups of warm water followed by two tablespoons of liquid dish detergent (or about two squirts from the bottle). Really, you just want to knock down any remaining sheen some before recoating.Thanks paintguy - I emailed Sikkens and hope to have answer tomorrow about how to prep the stained door for the first coat of Cetol. It is a mistake by some amateurs to use a pigmented finish, which hides the effect of the stain.

if I want to leave the tape up - will the first coat have hardened so much I won't be able to get it off clean?I wouldn't worry too much about an oil based coating being wet when the temps dip at night. However, there is the expiration date problem.

Then the painter gets to make everything look pretty.

And scrape off, it did!YMMV. That makes it like an oven in between the storm door and the door itself, almost like cooking the finish. BEHR 12 oz. on bottom of door) in the summer, rest of the year not bad.


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